The one with the monkeys on the label.
At least the marketing part works and is memorable, but here it's also true in the bottle.
Refreshing acidity and fine-grained tannin structure make the opulent fullness seem incredibly elegant. The oak aging fades completely into the background, and you simply want to savor this fine wine immediately.
Nevertheless, as with most very good wines, it is worth having a little patience, because experience shows that the product of the almost 100-year-old Carignan vines needs a few years of maturation to fully present itself.